SP250 Adjustable Steering Wheel

by Neil Kruse

When I mentioned I had an adjustable steering system to fit in my car to some of our members they all wondered just how it worked, so before I continue with the rebuild story I will try and explain. I understand these were an optional extra. See rebuild story

The top of the column is splined for about 140mm and the wheel has matching splines. The bottom of the wheel is in the form of a collett with a nut to clamp the wheel in position. The stator tube down the centre of the column is in two pieces, the bottom almost the length of the column and has a slot about 1.5mm wide by 120mm long cut in the top end. The top portion is 170mm long and is larger to slide over the lower one, it has several small indentations pressed into it in a line up the tube to form a series of keys to engage in the slot in lower one so it is then kept in line as it slides in and out. The flange to attach the indicator assembly is fixed to the top end the same as the fixed wheel but under that is a larger flange that is free to rotate, this also has an extension bent up to engage in the slot in the cancelling mechanism. When installed, this flange is held in place in the wheel by two small grub-screws just below the spokes of the wheel. The wheel can be moved in and out, the wire sliding in the stator tube and the indicator- horn assemble remains still when the wheel is turned.

Naturally I have not had to take one off but I have worked out what I think is how to remove the wheel so will explain as there is a trick the person I got mine off obviously didn’t know as he broke the indicator assemble in the process. An expensive thing to do if you are going to reinstall it. Jack up the front (axle stands for safety) line the wheels up straight, pull the steering wheel out as far as it will go then unscrew the two small grub-screws (finding these two screws is the key to all this). Push the wheel back down and the indicator assembly should come clear of the wheel. Take a note of the position of the extension that engages the cancelling mechanism as related to the wheel spokes. Now it becomes a two-person job. Disconnect the four wires (take note of the connection order) on mine these are bullet connectors and the wires are staggered in length. While one person carefully pulls from the top the other feeds the wire in from the bottom, care has to be taken to get the first connector through as it is a tight fit. It may be better to unsolder this one and resolder it when doing the re-installation. Remove the circlip from the top of the column and the wheel will come off.

To reassemble, put the steering wheel on, aligning the spokes up in the right place then replace the circlip. Now replace the indicator assembly. On the trial runs I have made to check on how to put it all back together I found it best to use a draw wire to get the wire down the middle. Also it helps if the loose wires with the connectors on are carefully bound with fine wire or a strong thread to help keep them in place otherwise they tend to bunch up and jam in the tube. On mine, I found the long stator tube was slightly bent at the top end, if I hadn’t of straightened it I wouldn’t have been able to align the two tubes and slide them together. I have also cut a slight mark at the bottom end in line with the top slot this should help in lining up the key-ways as it is impossible to see down the column. Don’t forget to reconnect the wires, align the cancelling tongue and tighten the two grub-screws.

At some very much later date I will let you all know if I’m right. – Neil Kruse